Kagoshima

Dearest Rachel –

A couple months ago, I told you about a manga I’d discovered (to be sure, it’s been out for years already, so it’s only really new to me) called Oyasumi Punpun (“Goodnight, Punpun”). Among the many aspects of its overall plotline was a thread in which the title character and his love interest make plans to, once they get themselves together (which, in some ways, is the whole story in a nutshell right there, as they are each so broken that they are all but incapable of doing so), they should move together to Kagoshima – because it’s basically the place to escape from the troubles they’ve grown up with and live with. Granted, it turns out that the one thing they can’t escape from is themselves, but in their minds, it seems like a reasonable place to go.

Because, you see, Kagoshima is about as far away as you can go, and still be on the ‘mainland’ – if such a thing is possible on an island nation to begin with – of Japan; it is on the very southwestern tip of the island of Kyushu. To a Tokyoite, Kagoshima must seem like the back end of nowhere – and a perfect place to flee from the stresses of the Big City. Of course, it doesn’t work out for Punpun and his girlfriend, but that’s by no means the city’s fault.

The irony is, for all that Nagasaki is the more widely-known city on Kyushu, Kagoshima is considerably larger – at six hundred thousand people, it’s about half again as big (granted, that’s assuming Wikipedia can be believed – Masako claimed Nagasaki boasted five hundred thousand inhabitants, as opposed to the four hundred thousand almost claimed online). Then again, it’s also larger in terms of sheer space as well, and so it’s not nearly as dense (Nagasaki compares to home, while Kagoshima is barely a quarter that level of crowding). So maybe Punpun and Aiko were hoping for the reduced stress of the less crowded area (as well as less nosy neighbors, considering what they’d come from and had to do to escape it all – well, okay, not all of it)

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To be fair, the two cities do have a certain amount of intertwined history, both in terms of the missionary influence of Francis Xavier, and the later restoration of the Meiji Emperor. Saigō Takamori is honored here; he led the Satsuma Domain, which encompassed much of modern-day Kagoshima Prefecture, and worked closely with Scottish merchant Thomas Blake Glover (whose accomplishments are heralded in Nagasaki). They formed a close relationship, primarily based on Glover’s support for the Satsuma Domain’s efforts to modernize its military forces (for which Glover provided weapons, military technology, and strategic advice), contributing to its military strength and ability to challenge the Tokugawa Shogunate. Takamori played a central role in the 1868-1869 Boshin War, a civil war between forces loyal to the shogunate and those supporting the restoration of imperial rule. The war culminated in the victory of the imperial forces, leading to the collapse of the shogunate and the establishment of the Meiji government. Saigō Takamori’s efforts helped pave the way for the Meiji Restoration, which marked the beginning of Japan’s modernization and transformation into a modern nation-state.

However, Takamori became disillusioned with the direction of the new government and its rapid modernization efforts, which he felt threatened traditional samurai values and the social order. In 1877, he led a rebellion known as the Satsuma Rebellion against the Meiji government, which was ultimately suppressed by the government’s superior military forces, with Takamori dying in the Battle of Shiroyama in Kagoshima. Glover also fell upon hard times, having to declare bankruptcy at one point, but eventually recovered and is likewise revered in Japan as one of the key figures in the country’s history, particularly in Nagasaki, for his efforts in pushing Japan toward modernization.

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Kagoshima overlooks Sakurajima, an active volcano – which has erupted thirty times throughout recorded history – and one of Japan’s most iconic landmarks (after Fuji-san, of course), standing in the bay bearing the city’s (and the prefecture’s) name. The city enjoys a mild climate and is surrounded by picturesque landscapes, including lush forests, hot springs, and scenic coastlines. Kagoshima is dotted with historical sites and cultural landmarks that reflect its rich heritage, including Senganen Garden, a traditional Japanese garden with stunning views of Sakurajima and Kagoshima Bay; the Shimazu Residence, the former home of the Shimazu clan, one of Japan’s most influential samurai families; and the Terukuni Shinto shrine dedicated to the Kagoshima Domain’s founder, Shimazu Nariakira.

To be sure, I don’t think we’ll be visiting any of these particular highlights; ours is a panoramic view of the city, mainly focusing on Shiroyama park, built on the site of the former Shiroyama Castle, which was a strategic fortress during the feudal era of Japan and played a significant role in the history of the region as a symbol of power and authority. As a result, it will be another fairly short tour, roughly two hours, allowing me the chance to try to get into town yet again. I may try to get my hands on another tram map, but whether I use it or not depends on how I feel, and whether there’s anything reasonably close by.

So with that being said, honey, keep an eye on me, and wish me luck. I’m going to need it.