Okinawa

Dearest Rachel –

Well, finally, here’s a place we’ve heard about back in the day, even if it’s only through various manga and anime. This is the place where it seems every class field trip winds up going to during their third year; the land of shiisa and sata andagi. You would likely giggle ever so slightly as I mention those two items; most of our friends (who are not otaku, or just aren’t old enough to recall Azumanga Daioh) will just look at me blankly for making such references.

I would suggest that Okinawa is to regular Japanese (by which I suppose I mean those residing on the four main islands, but specifically Tokyoites, as they seem to consider themselves the gold standard of what it means to be Japanese. Typical urban provincialism, if that doesn’t seem a little overly oxymoronic) what Hawaii is to us mainland Americans, except that it would seem that Hawaii is to Japanese what Hawaii is to us; remote, tropical and the perfect place for a honeymoon. Maybe it would make more sense to compare Okinawa to the Florida Keys; sure, the Conch Republic can’t hold a candle to the Ryukyu Kingdom, but geographically, there’s at least a slightly better analogy.

Interestingly, the city of Okinawa isn’t the capital of the prefecture, nor is it even the largest city in the prefecture, or even the island whose name it bears. Those distinctions belong to the ancient city of Naha, on the southern tip of the island. Indeed, the city of Okinawa is actually younger than either you or I, having been founded in April of 1974, after the end of the American administration of the islands.

To be sure, it isn’t as if the city sprang forth fully formed, as if Ameratsu herself struck the ground, declaring that “let there be here a city.” Okinawa was essentially formed from two villages (Misato and Koza) that grew into cities in their own right before merging, Voltron-like, to become the city as it exists today. Koza itself was once named Goeku, with ‘Koza’ being the name of the city-within-the-city that specifically catered to the U.S. military personnel stationed in the islands (primarily at Kadena Air Base), but essentially grew to the point where it overtook the village it was established within. While the U.S. turned the administration of the islands over to Japan, the air base remains, as does our military presence – a necessary evil given the proximity of China and North Korea, in particular, and the fact that Japan, by treaty as well as societal preference, has more or less completely disarmed itself. Needless to say, this is not somewhere for us to visit while we’re here (although I suppose it’s quite possible that there are those on our trip who have friends or family stationed there, and might visit on their own on that basis. But as I’m not one of them, nor do I know anyone like that personally, that’s a possibility I know nothing about).

Where we will be visiting tomorrow include a place called Okinawa World, which from its description sounds not unlike a Japanese (or would it be more accurately referred to as Ryukyuan?) version of colonial Williamsburg, a showcase of traditional Okinawan village life, complete with thatched-roof cottages, workshops and craft demonstrations featuring local artisans demonstrating pottery, weaving and glassblowing. The area also highlights Gyokusendo Cave as a main attraction, although I understand wour tour will likely be walking through only about half a mile of its more than three mile length. The excursion’s advertising copy doesn’t address whether we’ll be witnessing any eisa dance performances (a traditional dance performed by Okinawans at festivals and other celebrations), but I’m told that is also an attraction there, as well as dining options such as goya champuru (bittermelon stir-fry) and soki soba (a buckwheat noodle soup featuring pork ribs)

We’ll also be visiting the Shurei-mon Gate, although our tour will not be including the Shuri Castle itself. You might recall that the girls from Azumanga were almost as awed about the fact that the gate is featured on the 2,000 yen bill as they were by the gate itself (to be fair, it seems that the 2,000 yen bill is about as common in Japan as the $2 bill is in America, so I suppose seeing one in person – especially at the same time as you were in front of its subject – would be worthy of comment). Not sure if I’ll be able to get my hands on such a bill myself, come to think of it – although if I did, I’d probably want to make sure it was spent before I left Japan, as that’s still a fair amount of money locked up in that piece of paper. Which leads me to the final stop that I’m aware of: Kokusai Street, also known as International Street, one of the most famous and lively shopping and entertainment districts in Naha. If dining at Okinawa World isn’t an option, I suppose I can try something here; and while I don’t know what I might find, I’ve been given a list of things to look for by the boys already. Here’s hoping I can find something they’ll appreciate.

And with that having been said, honey, keep an eye on me, and wish me luck. I’m going to need it.