Newcastle

Dearest Rachel –

If Australia as a whole could be considered an afterthought in terms of my own opinions of this entire itinerary, then Newcastle would be the afterthought OF the afterthought. At least I’m familiar with Sydney and Brisbane, if only vaguely. Newcastle? Not so much.

I suppose it’s excusable; if Greater Sydney makes up two-thirds of the population of New South Wales, how significant (at least, in comparison) would any other city in the state be, after all? Only sixty miles north of Sydney, Newcastle is dwarfed by its sister city – and in fact, the only thing that comes to mind when I hear its name is the old expression of “carrying coals to Newcastle,” which is to do something utterly pointless, since Newcastle-Upon-Tyne (back over in ‘Blighty’ itself) was well known for its coal mines. You’d be stupid to try to sell something to people who already had an abundance of that very thing.

Although… there was a fellow a few centuries ago who got rich doing that very thing, sending shiploads of coal there just in time for a miners’ strike that had brought the city to its frostbitten knees… but I’m getting way off topic.

Or perhaps not; Newcastle, NSW does, in fact, have significant coal deposits similar to those found in the English city of Newcastle. As a result, they named the new settlement after the English city, recognizing its importance as a coal-mining center. The coal industry played a crucial role in the development and growth of Newcastle, shaping its economy and identity over the years. Even recently as 2008-09, Newcastle was the world’s largest coal export port as well as Australia’s oldest and second-largest tonnage throughput port, with over 3,000 shipping movements handling cargo of 95.8 Mt per annum, of which coal exports represented 90.8 Mt, or about 95% of its total traffic.

The mines also served as a punishing assignment to those unfortunate Brits who were sentenced to ‘transportation’ for, say, theft, burglary, assault, and even something as minor (to us) as vagrancy. It’s worth noting that transportation itself was often seen as a severe punishment, even for non-capital offenses, as it involved forced relocation to a distant colony with harsh living and working conditions – for all intents and purposes, it was a life sentence, and to those left behind in Britain, you might as well have died once you got on that boat. As such, transportation was intended to serve as both a punishment for individual offenders and as a means of deterrence for others.

That being said, life isn’t nearly as rough in Newcastle as it was during its days as a penal colony, or even as a mining town. It’s a vibrant coastal city known for its beautiful beaches, rich history, and thriving arts and culture scene. At three thousand people per square mile, it’s a little less crowded than home. Remnants of its industrial past can still be seen in places like the Newcastle Museum and the historic Fort Scratchley, while its stunning beaches, including Nobbys Beach, Newcastle Beach, and Merewether Beach, attract both locals and tourists alike with their excellent swimming, surfing, and sunbathing opportunities.

Of course, my morning (and going into the early afternoon) will be taken up with my shore excursion – a quad bike ride through the Stockton Bight, the largest sand dunes in the Southern Hemisphere – so I won’t be wandering around the city until at least two or three in the afternoon. But I’m informed that there are a fair number of sights to see there. The Newcastle Foreshore is a scenic waterfront precinct that offers beautiful views of the harbor and the city skyline, and contains plenty of cafes, restaurants, and bars lining the promenade. The Honeysuckle Precinct is another popular waterfront area known for its trendy bars, restaurants, and boutique shops; a vibrant hub of activity, especially on weekends (and it will be Saturday, so…), offering a lively atmosphere day and night (although our ship is scheduled to pull out at six in the evening, so that may be something of a moot point). There’s also the harbour itself, although the idea of taking an educational cruise there seems a bit like more of the same of what I’ve been experiencing; and then there’s the question of time, as getting back to the ship will certainly be a factor to take into consideration.

Still, I’m walking into this place somewhat blind; I’m going to have to take either some thorough notes, or some compelling footage if I’m to do this place justice. So keep an eye on me honey, and wish me luck; I’m going to need it.