Mo‘orea

Dearest Rachel –

This particular port is likely going to be the most difficult for me to write about. Not only do I know next to nothing about it, there’s nothing for me to anchor onto, in terms of a city located on the island or anything. It’s just… the island of Mo‘orea, and until this cruise, I had never heard of it. Tahiti, yes, but Mo‘orea? Nope, nothing. But as always, thank heavens for the internet, where you can find something out about pretty much anything and anywhere, so here goes.

Mo‘orea pronounced “Mo-oh-ray-ah,” is a member of the Windward Islands (although there are several other island chains by that name, both among the Lesser Antilles in the Caribbean, as well as the major islands of the Hawaiian archipelago) which themselves are a part of the Society Islands (named by Captain James Cook for the Royal Society of London for Improving Natural Knowledge – now known just as the Royal Society, thankfully – his sponsors for his trip that took him here) which are a further subset of what is known as French Polynesia. It’s about eleven miles by ferry from the village of Vaiare on the upper east coast of the island to Papeete, Tahiti’s main city – so our sail tomorrow night will be an incredibly short one, probably less than an hour (although they may go slower to avoid disturbing various sea life by the coasts). The island is small – only 52 square miles– just a little more than three times the size of our little suburb, while counting a little more than a fifth as many inhabitants.

It’s believed, based on what archaeological evidence has been found thus far, that those inhabitants are the descendants of Tongan and Samoan natives, who settled in the Society Islands in approximately the 200s A.D., and organized themselves into nine separate tribal principalities, broken down further into individual clans. The villages that currently exist, however, do not necessarily map against those ancient divisions, as the administrative divisions and boundaries of the island have evolved over time, influenced by various factors including colonial rule, changes in governance structures, and demographic shifts.

During the European age of exploration in the 18th century, Mo‘orea, along with other islands in the region, was visited by various European explorers, including British navigator Captain James Cook, who arrived in the Society Islands during his voyages in the late 18th century. His encounters with the Polynesian people and observations of their society contributed to the European understanding of the Pacific region, as well as leaving his name on the eastern bay on the northern coast (Cook’s Bay). However, the British did not attempt to colonize the islands, leaving it to the French, in the person of Admiral Abel Aubert Dupetit-Thouars to declare the islands (specifically, Tahiti, but by doing so, effectively established control over the entire archipelago) a French protectorate. Over time, France extended its influence and control over the rest of the islands, in a process that involved various treaties, agreements, and sometimes military actions that resulted in the establishment of French colonial rule.

While there have been movements advocating for greater autonomy or independence in French Polynesia, including the Society Islands, the political status of the territory has remained a subject of debate and discussion. As an overseas collectivity of France, it has a certain degree of autonomy in local affairs while remaining under French sovereignty. The relationship between French Polynesia and France has evolved over time, and there have been periods of political tension and calls for greater self-governance or independence, but at the moment, Mo‘orea, the Society Islands, and French Polynesia as a whole remain an overseas territory of France to this day.

As for what I can expect to see, there is the lush tropical vegetation, verdant hillsides, and picturesque landscapes of the Paopao Valley, which is surrounded by majestic peaks, including Mount Tohivea, which is the highest point on the island, just shy of 4,000 feet high. The valley is known for its fertile soil, and we expect to come across fields of taro, bananas, pineapples, and other tropical fruits grown by local farmers. It is also home to several beautiful waterfalls cascading down the mountainsides, providing refreshing spots to cool off and enjoy the tranquility of the surroundings – although it’s doubtful that we’ll have an opportunity to do so.

From there, we will head west to the Opunohu Valley and bay, renowned for its breathtaking natural beauty as well as its cultural and historical significance. We may visit several traditional Polynesian marae, ancient stone platforms which were once temples where the island’s original settlers, the Maohi, came to pray to gods, pay respect to chiefs, and discuss tribal matters. While Christianity largely supplanted traditional beliefs, the marae remained, serving as communal gathering spaces as well as being used for both traditional ceremonies and Christian services. Since we’re going to be there on a Sunday, there might be a question as to what we might see there; there might be a worship service, or it might not be accessible at all (or it might not be accessible because it’s being used as such; I don’t know at this point).

Should weather permit, we can expect some impressive views of both Opunohu and Cook’s Bays from the Belvedere Lookout Point, as well as Mount Rotui, whose trails we will follow en route back to the ship. We will be stopping for a snack on this return journey, and I’ve been advised to check out one of the local roulettes – which apparently has nothing to do with the casino game, but rather is the local name for the mobile food trucks or stands that serve delicious Polynesian and French-inspired dishes, and can be found throughout the island, especially in popular tourist areas. With any luck, I’ll be able to get a separate video out of that part of the visit, and still have a few hours before having to board for Pape‘etē.

Anyway, it should be an interesting day, especially given how I know so little about the place – even after all this research. So, keep an eye on me, honey, and wish me luck; I’m going to need it.