Shimizu – 清水

Dearest Rachel –

Our trip is just about to wind down, and we’re down to our last stop before returning to Tokyo, and from there to Narita and home via Denver (which no, I am not going to bother writing about. I’ve already told you plenty about having been there). I’m not sure how much I can dredge up about this town, as it’s by far the smallest of the ports we’re visiting, but here we go…

This actually turns out to be quite confusing, as there is a town by the name of Shimizu on the northwest side of Suruga Bay in Shizuoka Prefecture, but it’s only some thirty-two thousand people strong. It’s basically known for its fishing industry and beautiful views of Mount Fuji – which, to be fair, is part of the reason we, as a ship, are even here, despite the fact that I’ve been informed by one guide or another that the odds of seeing the mountain are worse than 50/50. Basically, if there are a hundred days of the year in which it’s visible, that’s a good year. And right now, it doesn’t help that it’s rainy and foggy right now; this may not be our year.

I guess that explains why my old company had so many pictures of its headquarters with Fuji-san in the background; when you get a clear day to shoot photos of it, you do it.

Anyway, despite the existence of this little town – which, when compared to those in Alaska, wouldn’t be considered out of line, but here in Japan, it’s suspiciously small for a port ‘city’ – there is also a ward of the prefectural capital city, Shizuoka, by that same name, on the west-northwest side of the bay. It would seem that it’s the ward that has the port, and not the tiny little town, but for whatever reason, the itinerary uses the ward’s name, which gets confused with the town. Why it doesn’t just say we’re going to Shizuoka, I really don’t know. The former city was merged into the city of Shizuoka on April 1, 2005, but that seems like ample time to update their itinerary. Before the merger, the city that is now Shimizu ward had a population of about 244,000 people.

The name “Shimizu” literally means “clean water,” and it is believed that the name comes from the fact that the city is situated near the mouth of the Abe River, which has some of the cleanest water in Japan.

In terms of size, Shizuoka City has a population of around 700,000 people and covers an area of approximately 1,500 square kilometers, with a population density of about 470 people per square kilometer. That’s a lot of space, and not all that many people to fill it; this is going to seem fairly rural in comparison to most of our last stops.

The geography of the area is dominated by mountains and the ocean. The city is located at the foot of Mount Fuji and has a long coastline along the Pacific Ocean. The area is known for its hot springs, tea plantations, and beautiful scenery. Shizuoka is home to the largest tea plantation in Japan, known as the Makinohara tea fields. We were scheduled to take a tour to the plantation and pick some tea for ourselves, but it seems that shore excursion was canceled due to lack of interest. Which is strange, because when we registered for it, the website said it was limited to only twenty guests; it seems like a small window between too many and not enough. Then again, if we were the only ones to sign up for it…

The area is also known for its production of wasabi, a pungent green plant that is often used as a condiment with sushi. Interestingly enough, most sushi restaurants and Japanese restaurants outside of Japan do not serve real wasabi. Real wasabi is a plant that is difficult to grow and expensive, which is why most restaurants use a substitute made from horseradish, mustard, and food coloring. However, some high-end sushi restaurants in Japan do serve real wasabi, which is grated on a sharkskin grater and has a different texture and flavor compared to the substitute. It is also true that the potency of wasabi decreases quickly once it is grated, which is why it is often grated fresh at the restaurant right before serving. With that being said, bringing home real, fresh wasabi would be more than a bit of a hassle. According to the USDA, fresh wasabi rhizomes can only be imported from certain countries that have been approved as having a low risk of plant pests and diseases. Additionally, a phytosanitary certificate must be obtained from the country of origin and presented to U.S. Customs and Border Protection upon arrival in the United States. So… yeah, probably not going to happen. I could still find other wasabi products like dried powder or wasabi-flavored snacks that are easier to transport and have a longer shelf life – and are less of a regulatory nightmare.

Back to Shizuoka; it has a long and rich history, with evidence of human habitation dating back to prehistoric times. During the feudal period, the area was ruled by various samurai clans, and the city served as an important center for trade and commerce. Today, Shizuoka is a thriving city with a strong economy, thanks in part to its location as a major transportation hub.

Some of the most famous landmarks in Shizuoka include Sengen Shrine, which is located at the base of Mount Fuji and is one of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan, and Sunpu Castle, which was once the residence of Tokugawa Ieyasu himself, the founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate.

As with literally everywhere else we’ve visted, one of the best times to visit Shizuoka is during April, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Some popular spots for cherry blossom viewing include Nihondaira and Miho-no-Matsubara, which offer stunning views of the mountain and the ocean.

Anyway, practically speaking, we’re looking for something within walking distance of either the port or the Shimizu train station, where I’m told the shuttle will be dropping us off – you can probably tell by now that I’m putting this together on the fly, rather than having this pre-written, like so many other of these city reports (at least, with the shortened day in Kobe, I’ve got the time to do this). It seems our best bet in terms of such attractions is the S-Pulse Dream Plaza, a large shopping and entertainment complex located in the port area of Shizuoka City – which might very well mean we wouldn’t even need the shuttle in the first place, if it’s right at the port where we’re to dock.

The plaza was opened in 1999 as part of a redevelopment project for the port area, and is home to a variety of attractions, including a shopping mall, restaurants, a movie theater, and an aquarium. One of the highlights of the plaza is the Shimizu S-Pulse soccer museum, which features exhibits on the history of the Shimizu S-Pulse soccer team, one of the most popular professional soccer teams in Japan. Another popular attraction is the “Sushi Alley,” a street lined with small restaurants that specialize in fresh seafood and sushi. Visitors can watch the sushi chefs at work and enjoy some of the freshest seafood available in Japan. The plaza also offers stunning views of Mt. Fuji and the Suruga Bay, making it a great place to relax and enjoy the scenic beauty of the area.

Hey, it sounds like as good a plan for tomorrow as any. I’d ask what you think, honey, but you aren’t able to join us, more the pity. Still, keep an eye on us, and wish us luck; we’re going to need it.

P.S. And as long as you’re wishing us luck, if you could see your way clear such that we could see our way clear, that would be kind of nice, too.