Dearest Rachel –
I know I should be talking about Kobe, since that is the port that we will be coming into tomorrow. However, since our excursion is a Shinkansen ride to Kyoto – and this is the place I remember so vividly, as I walked around it during the day after the Emperor Showa’s death was announced – I think I’ll put in a little research about it as well. Kobe itself can wait for tomorrow morning.
Kyoto, also known as the “City of Ten Thousand Shrines,” is one of the most culturally rich cities in Japan. It is located in the Kansai region of Japan, and is the capital of Kyoto Prefecture. The city covers an area of about 827 square kilometers and has a population of around 1.5 million people, with a population density of approximately 1,800 people per square kilometer (4,600 per square mile, making it only slightly more dense than at home).
Kyoto’s location in the heart of Japan’s main island of Honshu made it a center of culture and politics throughout history. It is situated on a plateau in the center of the island, surrounded by mountains, and is bisected by the Kamo River. The city’s climate is mild, with warm summers and cool winters.
The name Kyoto means “capital city,” and it served as Japan’s capital for over 1,000 years, from 794 to 1868. As such, it has a rich history and cultural heritage, and because of this, the city was largely spared from the bombings of World War II, so many of its historic buildings and landmarks are still intact today. Kyoto was actually on the initial list of potential targets for the atomic bomb, but it was eventually removed from the list at the urging of Secretary of War Henry Stimson. He argued that bombing Kyoto would cause unnecessary destruction of irreplaceable cultural treasures and risk alienating the Japanese people. And while Kyoto did have some military installations, they were not considered to be of significant strategic importance compared to other potential targets. It is also believed that the geography of the city, with its surrounding mountains, may have played a role in making it a less favorable target.
Ultimately, the decision to spare Kyoto from bombing was a controversial one, as some military officials felt that it would have been a legitimate target. However, in the end, Kyoto remained intact and many of its cultural treasures survived the war.
Kyoto is home to numerous historic landmarks, including 17 of Japan’s 26 UNESCO World Heritage Sites (by comparison, the entirety of the United States only contains 23 such sites). These include the famous Kinkaku-ji Temple (Golden Pavilion), a Zen temple covered in gold leaf, and the Kiyomizu-dera Temple, which offers stunning views of the city from its hilltop location. Other popular attractions include the Fushimi Inari-taisha Shrine, known for its thousands of torii gates, and the Nijo Castle, a 17th-century fortress with a stunning garden.
To the northwest of Kyoto stands Mount Atago, with the character for “big” (大) carved into the mountainside. It is said to be one of the largest kanji characters in the world. The character is made of white stones, which stand out against the green of the mountain, and it is visible from afar. I remember it in particular as I used it as a landmark to find my way to the hotel our class was staying at; I simply had to walk in the opposite direction from the mountain in order to find my way back.
Like so many others throughout Japan, Mount Atago is considered a sacred mountain and has been a popular destination for pilgrimages since ancient times. It is also known for its scenic beauty and hiking trails, which offer stunning views of the surrounding area. Many people visit Mount Atago during the summer to climb the mountain and enjoy the cool mountain air, while others visit during the autumn to see the changing colors of the leaves.
During the month of April, Kyoto is particularly popular due to the blooming of the cherry blossom trees. Visitors flock to the city’s parks and temples to view the delicate pink and white blossoms, a symbol of renewal and the arrival of spring. The Philosopher’s Path, a pedestrian path lined with cherry trees, is a particularly popular spot for viewing the blossoms.
Kyoto’s rich history and culture can be experienced in many ways. Visitors can enjoy traditional Japanese arts such as tea ceremony, calligraphy, and flower arrangement, or visit the city’s numerous museums, which showcase art, history, and culture. Food is also an important part of Kyoto’s culture, and the city is known for its traditional cuisine, including kaiseki ryori, a multi-course meal featuring seasonal ingredients.
Kyoto also has a number of interesting and unusual tidbits. For example, it is said that the city has over 1,000 temples and shrines, and that it once had 12,000 Buddhist temples alone. It is also home to the Gion district, where visitors can see geisha and maiko (apprentice geisha) walking the streets in their traditional attire. And for those interested in technology and innovation, the city is also home to the Kyoto Research Park, a hub for research and development in a variety of fields.
Admittedly, I can’t replicate my experience in wandering through Kyoto for Daniel – and the part that I can, we’ve already experienced in Kitakyushu and Takamatsu (apart from the effect of Mt. Atama guiding me back to the hotel, which won’t be part of our fairly well-guided tour, I suspect). Still, I hope he can get something out of tomorrow’s trip that he couldn’t just from my narrating it to him, even as we both have to understand the difference between his experience and mine.
And with that, keep an eye on us, and wish us luck, honey. We’re going to need it.
Letters to Rachel 