Dearest Rachel –
For all that Hiroshima has a certain singular claim to fame (if nothing else, it is the yardstick by which all nuclear devices are measured against, usually in terms of dwarfing it), there is so much more to this city than that one terrible moment. Indeed, the fact that it still stands (or, more to the point, that it was rebuilt) after such an event allows there to be more to the city than that one moment in its history.
Hiroshima is a city located in the western part of Japan’s Honshu island, and is the capital of Hiroshima Prefecture. Its name means “Broad Island” in Japanese, which is fitting as it is situated on the delta of the Ota River, which flows into the Seto Inland Sea.
With a population of over 1.1 million people and a land area of approximately 905 square kilometers, Hiroshima is the largest city in the Chugoku region of Japan. It is also one of the most densely populated cities in the country, with around 1,200 people per square kilometer (or about 3,400 per square mile; not as much as home, but nothing to sneeze at, either).
Hiroshima is perhaps best known for being the first city in history to be targeted by an atomic bomb, during the final stages of World War II. On August 6, 1945, an American B-29 bomber named Enola Gay dropped an atomic bomb on the city, killing an estimated 140,000 people by the end of the year. The bomb, known as “Little Boy,” had a yield of 15 kilotons of TNT and destroyed most of the city’s buildings within a two-kilometer radius of ground zero. The city has since rebuilt itself into a bustling metropolis with a thriving economy, although the memory of the atomic bombing remains a defining feature of its history and identity. The Peace Memorial Park and Museum, located near the hypocenter of the bomb, is one of the city’s most important landmarks and serves as a poignant reminder of the horrors of nuclear war.
As for concerns about radiation, it is important to note that the levels of radiation in Hiroshima are not currently considered a health risk to visitors. While some areas of the city were heavily contaminated in the aftermath of the bombing – and the half-life (the time it takes for half of the original radioactive material to decay into a more stable form) of uraniums-235 and -238 are approximately 704 million years and 4.5 billion years, respectively – it’s important to note that the level of radiation in an area depends not only on the half-life of the radioactive material but also on the amount of it present and other factors such as weather and geography. Significant cleanup efforts were also undertaken in the years following the attack, and radiation levels have since been brought down to safe levels.
After the atomic bombing of Hiroshima, the level of radiation in the city was indeed high, but it has decreased over time. The area of the blast site, known as the Atomic Bomb Dome or Genbaku Dome, was preserved as a reminder of the destructive power of nuclear weapons and is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is the skeletal remains of the former Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall that was destroyed in the atomic bomb blast, and now stands as a symbol of the tragedy and a reminder of the importance of peace. Today, Hiroshima is a thriving city with a population of over one million people, and visitors can explore its history and culture through museums, memorials, and other landmarks.
In terms of those landmarks, other popular attractions in Hiroshima include Hiroshima Castle, which was originally constructed in the late 16th century and rebuilt in the 1950s. There is also the Shukkeien Garden, which dates back to the Edo period and features a pond, tea house, and variety of seasonal flowers and trees. It is a traditional Japanese garden that features a central pond, a teahouse, and a variety of plants and trees. It is especially popular during cherry blossom season in April, when the garden is transformed into a pink wonderland.
Somewhat further afield is Miyajima Island, which is actually on our itinerary tomorrow. It’s only a short ferry ride from Hiroshima, and is famous for its giant torii gate that appears to float on the water at high tide, as well as its many temples, shrines, and friendly deer that roam the streets. If I can get a picture of Daniel petting a deer, that would really be something, wouldn’t it?
As for unique culinary offerings, Hiroshima has several options (although since we have an extended shore excursion, this isn’t exactly going to be up to us). Hiroshima Bay is known for producing some of the best oysters in Japan, and there are numerous restaurants throughout the city that serve them up in a variety of ways. Popular preparations include grilled with butter and soy sauce or raw with a side of ponzu sauce. Not a big favorite with either Daniel or myself, but Hiroshima is also famous for its version of the Japanese savory pancake dish known as okonomiyaki. Unlike the Osaka style, which mixes all the ingredients together, the Hiroshima version is layered, with noodles, cabbage, meat, and other toppings cooked on a griddle and topped with a fried egg. This is something I think we could both enjoy, depending on the meat. Hiroshima is also known for tsukemen, a popular Japanese noodle dish that involves dipping cold noodles into a hot and flavorful broth. The dish is often served with a thick and rich sauce made from fish and pork bones, creating a unique and delicious flavor.
All of which sounds cool, but we’ll see what we get a chance to participate in. Until then, honey, keep an eye on us, and wish us luck. We’re going to need it.
Letters to Rachel 