Dearest Rachel –
So, after that brief sojourn on the tip of the Asian continent proper, we return to the islands of Japan. And I use the plural deliberately, since this is our first visit to a city on an island other than the main one of Honshu.
Kitakyushu is a city located in the northwestern part of Kyushu Island, Japan. The name “Kitakyushu” literally means “north Kyushu” and was given to the city in 1963, after it was formed by the merger of five separate cities and towns, each with its own unique history and culture. Today, it is the second-largest city in both Fukuoka Prefecture and on Kyushu Island (after the prefectural capital of Fukuoka itself), with a population of approximately 940,000 people and an area of 489.6 square kilometers. Interestingly, this means that Kitakyushu is (apart from Tokyo itself) the first Japanese city we’ve come to that’s denser than Arlington Heights.
Kitakyushu is situated at the northernmost tip of Kyushu, where the Kanmon Strait separates the island from Honshu to the north. This location has made it an important transportation hub, with a major port connecting the Sea of Japan and the Seto Inland Sea, allowing it to serve as a gateway to other parts of Japan, as well as to the Korean peninsula and China. Kitakyushu is also known for its scenic beauty, including the Kanmon Straits, the Kawachi Reservoir, and the many mountains that surround the city.
Historically, Kitakyushu was a strategic location for military defenses and trade, with a rich history dating back over a thousand years, with evidence of human habitation in the area as far back as the Jomon period (14,000-300 BCE). In the 12th century, when the area was known as Kokura, it was a center of trade with China and Korea, and in the 16th century it became a major center of Japanese pottery production. During the Edo period (1603-1868), Kokura was a castle town and an important center of trade and commerce. It’s also historically significant in the role that it played in Japan’s industrial development; Kitakyushu was originally known for its coal mining and steel production industries, which were crucial in the growth of Japan’s economy during the post-war period. In 1963, Kokura merged with the neighboring cities of Moji, Wakamatsu, Tobata, and Yahata to form the new city of Kitakyushu.
One of the most famous landmarks in Kitakyushu is the Kokura Castle, which was originally built in 1602 and served as the seat of the Ogasawara clan, the rulers of Kokura, the ancient castle town upon and around which Kitakyushu was built. The castle was destroyed during World War II but but has since been rebuilt and restored to its former glory as a museum, which opened in 1959. Visitors can tour the castle and learn about its history, as well as enjoy the surrounding gardens and cherry blossom trees during the spring season. Another popular attraction is the Totoya Caves, which are limestone caves located on the outskirts of the city. Visitors can explore the caves and see the unique rock formations and underground streams.
Another popular attraction in Kitakyushu is the Mojiko Retro Area, a historic district that preserves the old Western-style buildings and streets from the early 20th century when the city was a major port for international trade. The area is known for its well-preserved buildings, including the Mojiko Station and the Kanmon Kaikyo Museum. Visitors can take a stroll through the streets and enjoy the nostalgic atmosphere while browsing the shops and cafes.
Another place to visit is the Riverwalk Kitakyushu, a modern shopping and entertainment complex located in the city center, next to the Murasaki River. It features a wide range of shops, restaurants, and movie theaters, as well as a Ferris wheel that offers views of the city and the surrounding mountains. The Mojiko Retro area is about 6 kilometers (3.7 miles) away from the harbor, and takes approximately 20 minutes by taxi or 30 minutes by public transportation, depending on traffic. The Riverwalk Kitakyushu is located in the central part of the city and is about 13 kilometers (8 miles) away from the harbor. It takes approximately 40 minutes by taxi or one hour by public transportation, depending on traffic. While the two places are not within walking distance of each other, they are easily accessible by taxi or public transportation.
For those interested in art and culture, the Kitakyushu Manga Museum is a must-see attraction. The museum showcases the history and evolution of manga, the Japanese comic book art form, with exhibits and displays of original manga artwork and manga-related merchandise. Several well-known mangaka from Kitakyushu are showcased in the Manga Museum. One of the most famous is Takao Saito, who created the long-running and highly popular manga series “Golgo 13,” released as “The Professional” in the States in the early part of the Japanimation arc here. Other notable mangaka from Kitakyushu include Tetsuya Chiba, who is known for the boxing manga “Ashita no Joe” (“Tomorrow’s Joe”), and Moto Hagio, a pioneer of shoujo manga. The museum features exhibitions and displays dedicated to these and other local mangaka, as well as a library of manga for visitors to read and a studio where visitors can try their hand at creating their own manga.
In terms of unusual tidbits, Kitakyushu is known for its unique garbage disposal system. The city has a Waste Energy Plant that converts household waste into electricity and heat, which is then used to power homes and businesses in the area.
During April, visitors to Kitakyushu can also experience the Kitakyushu Cherry Blossom Festival, which takes place in various locations throughout the city. The festival features food stalls, traditional Japanese performances, and of course, cherry blossom viewing.
So, we’ll have to see what, if any, of this we’ll be able to see. Like Busan, we don’t have a shore excursion tomorrow; unlike Busan, we never had anything planned (there weren’t a lot of offerings, and what there was didn’t really appeal). Hopefully, we’ll find ourselves in the Retro Area or the Riverwalk; I’ll let you know how it turns out.
Until then, honey, keep an eye on us, and wish us luck. We’re going to need it.
Letters to Rachel 