Dearest Rachel –
We’ve now gone across the top of Honshu, and continuing our counterclockwise route around the country through the Sea of Japan (as opposed to the Pacific Ocean proper).
Akita (literally translated ‘autumn field,’ which suggests we’re here at exactly the wrong time of year – evidently, the many rice paddies turn a beautiful golden color in the fall) is a city of 316 thousand located in the northern part of Honshu, the main island of Japan. It’s the capital of Akita Prefecture, and it’s known for its beautiful natural scenery, hot springs, and local cuisine.
The history of Akita dates back to the Edo period (1603-1868), when it was an important castle town and a center for trade and commerce. During this time, many samurai and merchants settled in the area, and their influence can still be seen in the city’s architecture and culture today.
One of the most famous landmarks in Akita is the Akita Senshu Park, which is located in the center of the city. The park is home to several historic buildings, including the Kubota Castle Ruins and the Senshu Museum of Art. The Kubota Castle was built in 1604, and it played an important role in the history of the region. Today, visitors can explore the castle ruins and enjoy the beautiful views of the city from the top of the hill.
Another popular attraction in Akita is the Akita Omoriyama Zoo, which is home to a wide variety of animals, including lions, tigers, bears, and monkeys. The zoo is located on a hill overlooking the city, and visitors can enjoy stunning views of the surrounding landscape while exploring the exhibits.
During April, one of the best places to visit in Akita is the Akita Cherry Blossom Festival, which takes place at the Senshu Park. The festival celebrates the arrival of spring, and visitors can enjoy the beautiful cherry blossoms that bloom throughout the park. In addition to the cherry blossoms, there are also food stalls, live performances, and other activities for visitors to enjoy. The festival usually takes place in early April, but the exact dates can vary from year to year depending on when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom. In 2023, the festival is scheduled to take place from April 30 to May 7, which unfortunately means we’ll miss it by a few weeks. Still, I’m told there are still many beautiful cherry blossom spots in Akita that you can enjoy during your visit.
For those interested in traditional Japanese culture, the Akita Museum of Art is another must-see attraction. The museum houses a collection of over 10,000 works of art, including paintings, sculptures, and ceramics, many of which are from the Edo period. Visitors can learn about the history and culture of the region while admiring the beautiful art and artifacts on display.
Although, as I’ve said before, that’s not Daniel’s cup of tea. So, we’ll be visiting the Namahage Museum, located in Oga City elsewhere in the prefecture, which is dedicated to the Namahage tradition. The Namahage tradition is a folkloric tradition in the Tohoku region of Japan that involves masked men dressed in straw capes and carrying wooden knives going from house to house during New Year’s Eve to ward off evil spirits and bring good luck. The wooden knives used by the Namahage are believed to have the power to cut through evil spirits and negative energies. It is said that the sharp noise created by the knives being struck together and their intimidating appearance help to scare away any evil spirits or demons that may be lurking in the area. The knives are also thought to represent the discipline and strength needed to ward off negative influences and stay true to one’s goals and values.
The museum features exhibits on the history of the Namahage tradition, including displays of traditional masks and costumes, as well as interactive displays that allow visitors to experience the tradition firsthand. Visitors can also watch live performances of the Namahage ritual, which take place several times a day in a specially built theater. One of the most popular exhibits at the museum is a life-size recreation of a traditional Namahage hut, which visitors can enter to experience what it would be like to be visited by Namahage during New Year’s Eve. The museum also offers workshops where visitors can try on Namahage costumes and learn how to make traditional rice cakes.
Speaking of which, an unusual and interesting fact about Akita is that it’s known for its local cuisine, particularly its rice dishes. One of the most famous dishes is kiritanpo, a traditional Akita dish made of mashed rice that is wrapped around a cedar stick and grilled. It’s often served with hot pot dishes, and it’s a must-try for anyone visiting the city. Don’t know if we’ll have the time for that, but at least it’s a recommendation worth taking into account. Another local delicacy is “ibu no katsu,” a deep-fried patty made of smoked salmon, which sounds tempting to me, but I know Daniel won’t appreciate it in the slightest.
We’ll also be visiting the Kanpuzan Observatory, also known as the Akita Observatory, located atop Mount Taihei in Akita City. The observatory is situated 336 meters above sea level, making it a great spot for panoramic views of the city and the surrounding landscape. The observatory is accessible via a cable car ride that takes about five minutes. Once at the top, visitors can enjoy 360-degree views of the area from the observation deck, which is open-air and provides a great vantage point for taking photos.
In addition to the stunning views, the observatory also houses a planetarium that offers educational shows about the night sky and the universe. Visitors can learn about constellations, galaxies, and other celestial bodies in an immersive and entertaining way. It’s also a popular spot for stargazing, as the high altitude and lack of light pollution make it an ideal location for observing the night sky. In fact, the observatory hosts special stargazing events throughout the year, where visitors can use telescopes and other equipment to get a closer look at the stars and planets. Admittedly, we won’t be hanging around overnight for something like that, but it’s another nice thing to be aware of. I’d say something like “maybe next time,” but I know better.
For now, though, keep an eye on us, honey, and wish us luck; we’re going to need it.
Letters to Rachel 