Tokyo – 東京

Dearest Rachel –

Since I’m going to be incommunicado on the flight, I figure I’ll have this prepared beforehand to send to you, and schedule it to arrive shortly before landing. After all, it isn’t as if I’m going to be discussing this with Daniel at dinner – while I expect we’ll be served several meals between takeoff and landing, I don’t know if we’ll even be sitting next to each other on the flight. I do know he won’t be likely to be all that fascinated with whatever research I might put together in terms of research on this or any of the other ports of call – and in fairness, what I’m assembling (with the assistance of ChatGPT; I’d say it’s fitting that the country that I think of when it comes to robots – even if almost all of them were manufactured in Detroit – should be described by robots, for the most part. Don’t you agree?) doesn’t necessarily have any impact on what we may or may not see in any given place.

Indeed, as a side note, I’m hoping not to see anything along the lines of what Bruce Cockburn saw when he was touring Japan. His song always seems to come to mind when I think of the city of Tokyo.

This was earworming me when our class landed here back in January, 1989, and I don’t see any reason for it not to come back to mind now, either. Sure, I’m not likely to see all the sights he describes – or that are shown in this video, for that matter – but it seems all that much more appropriate to think about it now, especially given that I’m telling you about it.

It seems that Bruce actually did witness a car accident in Tokyo that inspired him to write the song. According to a 2010 interview, he said, “The genesis of the song was a night when I was standing on the street corner in Tokyo. It was raining and there were big umbrellas going by, and then there was a car accident. And suddenly, there was blood on the sidewalk. It was a shocking thing for me to see, and it made me think about the transience of life.”

Boy, can I relate to that.

Ironically, when we land later on today (or, I guess, it would be tomorrow? Not just because of the length of the flight, but crossing the international date line adds a whole other day to the trip, you know), I’ll have been to Tokyo more times than Cockburn has, and most likely for longer. He was only there once, and only for what he referred to as a ‘brief period’; although what that means, I can only guess at.

Anyway, that’s more than enough preamble, I suppose. Here’s the sort of info we would present before arriving in port – or in this case, the airport – as presented by my little robotic assistant (and edited a bit by me):

Tokyo is the bustling capital city of Japan, known for its unique blend of ancient and modern architecture, cutting-edge technology, and vibrant culture. With a population of over 13 million people, Tokyo is one of the largest cities in the world, and there is no shortage of things to see and do here.

The city was founded in the 15th century as a small fishing village by the name of Edo (江戸: the characters translate to ‘cove entrance,’ or ‘estuary’), but it wasn’t until the 17th century that it began to grow and develop as a major cultural and political center. In 1603, Edo became the capital of Japan under the Tokugawa shogunate, which lasted until 1868. During this period, Edo grew rapidly in size and importance, becoming one of the largest and most prosperous cities in the world. The city became known for its distinctive culture, including its food, art, and entertainment. In 1868, the Meiji Restoration led to the restoration of imperial rule in Japan, and the capital was moved from Kyoto to Tokyo (when it received its current name, meaning ‘eastern capital’). This marked the beginning of a new era for the city, as it underwent rapid modernization and became a hub of industry, commerce, and technology.

During World War II, Tokyo was heavily bombed by Allied forces, resulting in widespread destruction and loss of life. However, the city was rebuilt in the postwar period (not for the first time, not even in the 20th century – the great Kantō earthquake in 1923 levelled much of the city barely two decades previously), and today it’s a thriving metropolis that’s known for its innovative architecture, cutting-edge technology, and rich cultural heritage.

Overall, Tokyo’s history is a complex and fascinating tapestry that reflects the unique blend of tradition and modernity that characterizes this vibrant and dynamic city. One of the most iconic landmarks in Tokyo is the Tokyo Tower, a 333-meter-tall communications tower that offers stunning views of the city. Modeled after the Eiffel Tower in Paris (although it’s taller than the Eiffel Tower by just shy of 30 feet), the Tokyo Tower was built in 1958 and has since become one of the most recognizable symbols of Tokyo. By way of comparison, the Sears Tower (I’m not gonna call it the Willis Tower, sorry) stands at 442 meters (1,450 feet) tall, making it considerably taller. However, the Tokyo Tower still remains an impressive structure in its own right and has become an iconic landmark of Tokyo’s skyline. Visitors can take an elevator to the top of the tower and enjoy panoramic views of the city from the observation deck. Aside from its impressive height, the Tokyo Tower also offers visitors stunning views of the city from its observation deck, which is located at a height of 150 meters (490 feet) above ground. From here, visitors can take in panoramic views of Tokyo’s sprawling cityscape, including famous landmarks such as the Tokyo Skytree and even Mount Fuji on a clear day.

Another popular attraction in Tokyo is the Imperial Palace, which serves as the residence of the Emperor of Japan. Surrounded by beautiful gardens and moats, the Imperial Palace is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in Japanese history and culture. While the interior of the palace isn’t open to the public, visitors can explore the palace grounds and take in the stunning views of the surrounding scenery.

For those interested in shopping and entertainment, Tokyo offers a wealth of options, from trendy boutiques and department stores to cutting-edge technology and gaming centers. It’s also known for its vibrant street fashion and youth culture. In the Harajuku neighborhood, located near the famous Meiji Shrine, you’ll find a plethora of colorful and eclectic fashion styles, from Lolita to Goth and everything in between. Harajuku is also home to many trendy cafes and shops, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists. Shibuya, Shinjuku, and Ginza are just a few more of the many districts in Tokyo that are known for their shopping and entertainment offerings.

But Tokyo isn’t just about modernity and consumerism – it’s also home to many museums and cultural institutions that showcase Japan’s rich history and heritage. The Tokyo National Museum, for example, houses a vast collection of Japanese art and artifacts, including samurai swords, Buddhist statues, and calligraphy scrolls. The Edo-Tokyo Museum, on the other hand, provides a fascinating look at the history of Tokyo from its Edo period origins to the present day.

One of the most unique aspects of Tokyo is its food culture, which ranges from traditional Japanese cuisine to modern fusion dishes. Some popular local dishes include sushi, ramen, and tempura, as well as regional specialties from all over Japan. Visitors to Tokyo can explore the city’s many food markets and restaurants, sampling a wide variety of delicious and often unusual dishes. In addition to these well-known attractions, there are also many hidden gems to discover in Tokyo. The Yanaka neighborhood, for example, is a charming and peaceful area that offers a glimpse of old Tokyo, with narrow streets lined with traditional houses and shops. The Todoroki Valley is another hidden gem, a beautiful natural oasis in the heart of the city, with a picturesque stream and walking paths that are especially beautiful during the autumn foliage season.

Finally, one interesting fact about Tokyo is its unique vending machine culture. With over 5 million vending machines throughout the country, Japan has one of the highest vending machine densities in the world. In Tokyo, you can find vending machines selling everything from drinks and snacks to umbrellas and even ties. Some vending machines even offer hot and cold meals, such as ramen noodles and rice bowls, and some real curiosities, such as canned bread or even live lobsters. However, tales of vending machines that sell used underwear are a bit of an urban legend. While there may have been instances of such vending machines in the past, they are not a common sight in modern-day Tokyo or anywhere else in Japan. In fact, the Japanese government has been cracking down on illegal vending machines in recent years, including those that sell used underwear or other illicit items (the sale of second-hand underwear is illegal in Japan under the Antiques Act, of all things, which prohibits the sale of used clothing without a permit). Which is not to say you can’t find used clothing – although things like garage sales and thrift stores aren’t exactly a ‘thing’ in Japan – there are secondhand shops and flea markets, they’re just thoroughly regulated. And it’s not as if Daniel or I expect to be in a place or position where we’ll see one.

Okay, I seem to have gotten sidetracked by this one, and had to cobble this together from about a half-dozen questions in succession to ChatGPT. Hope it was interesting enough; this is all theoretical stuff I can compile beforehand. Now, we go on to actually experience the place, and see how it matches up. Talk to you later, honey.

Until then, keep an eye on us, and wish us luck; we’re going to need it.